United
is my gift to this World. It is the change I wish to see. A vehicle to
awaken people to their own potential; and a means to support athletes,
artists, and musicians in need of assistance around the world. I also knew
United was a dream bigger than me and would be my test to this world
to see if we truly were supported.
Surfing
on the other hand, was the world's gift to me. An act that you could
endlessly improve at and never tire of. An act that let you detach
from all the frivolous uncertainties and junk in your life. No
matter what you were going through, the edge was always softened after
a surf. It was also an excellent arena to test fears and realize the vital
truth that by acting despite your fears, you would be offered great rewards. It also
offered the valuable lesson that no matter how heavy things got, it's
always best to relax, let go, and surrender to a situation; rather than
tensing and struggling. There was adventure and travel and life lessons
learned along every step of the way. It always brings you back to what is truly
important in life: having fun and sharing it with friends. The cherry
on top...it keeps you in shape without even trying. It's moving meditation and a
re-connection to something far larger than ourselves. It is an art and a
lifestyle that I am honored to be a part of.
15
years in now and I'm still as stoked on it as when I first started. In fact,
maybe more so. With the increased ability, so many more waves become
makeable. The smallest or harshest conditions are now just a means to test
quickness and flow. This stage also offers the ability to give back and share
some of the joy and lessons learned along the way. I love being able to give
away waves and not fear of catching another, or helping reposition a novice to
catch the next set.
Or even just sharing simple travel advice to help someone
on their next trip.
My art and writing are just another
vehicle to get the message out there that we are supported. They are my hopes,
my dreams, my fears, and my findings. They tell the story of what I've seen and
what I've felt along the way. At the end of it all, I hope they serve as a light
in dark places for others on their path to their dreams. Thanks for visiting the
site... _Cheers
Check out my video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWKdA4B1fcw